Kimono are often worn for various important events, such as weddings and festivals, bringing a touch of tradition and elegance to each occasion. In this article, we’ll explore the roots of kimono, their evolution into modern times, and the meanings and sentiments woven into the different styles and variations of this beloved garment.
The Roots of Kimono
Origins Traced Back to the Yayoi Period
Though today's kimono is often seen as elegant and striking, its origins can be traced back to the Yayoi period (300 BCE–250 CE). During this era, women typically wore a simple garment called kantoi, a basic piece of clothing with an opening in the middle for the head.
Some believe that this kantoi is an early prototype of the kosode, a precursor to the modern kimono. The kosode, meaning “small-sleeved garment,” had narrow sleeves and was worn under the elaborate jūnihitoe, or “twelve-layered robe,” which was favoured by high-ranking court ladies during the Heian period (794–1192).
The Jūnihitoe in the Heian Period
The jūnihitoe, also formally known as karaginumosugata, was the formal attire for noble adult women during the Heian period (794–1192). This intricate and layered robe ensemble was worn during public ceremonies and celebratory events at the imperial court. Remarkably, even today, the jūnihitoe is used during certain imperial ceremonies, such as coronation rites and royal weddings. In the Heian period, specific colours, known as kinjiki (forbidden colours), required imperial permission to wear. These included seven shades, such as red, blue, and deep purple, symbolising high status and privilege.
Contrary to the name jūnihitoe, meaning “twelve layers,” this attire did not necessarily consist of exactly twelve layers; rather, the term referred more broadly to the layered ensemble, which could vary in the number of garments worn.
The Kamakura to Edo Periods
From the Kamakura period (1185–1333), power shifted to the warrior class, who preferred practical clothing. Women primarily wore the kinubakama ensemble, which consisted of kosode (short-sleeved robes), koromo (overgarments), and hakama (traditional trousers or skirts).
During the Muromachi period (1336–1573), both commoners and the samurai class began wearing kosode with sleeves (tamoto), regardless of social rank or gender. The term "kimono" also emerged during this time. Interest in decorative designs grew, with innovations such as Hakata-ori, a woven textile with a durable yet elegant texture, gaining popularity. This weave was especially prized for use in obi (kimono sashes).
During the Edo period (1603–1867), the cultural significance and value of the kimono reached new heights, and a custom of passing kimonos down through generations emerged. Women's kimono styles became more expressive, continuing a trend that began towards the end of the Muromachi period, where decorative kosode (short-sleeved kimono) became popular. Under the feudal system, regional designs reflecting local domains were often incorporated into kimono patterns. This period also saw the development of traditional kimono styles, such as ohashori and taiko musubi (taiko knot), which remain significant in modern kimono attire.
- Hakata-ori: A silk textile woven in Fukuoka Prefecture. It is created by using a large number of warp threads with several thickened weft threads for added texture and durability.
- Ohashori: This fold of fabric, located beneath the obi (sash), results from tucking the extra length of the kimono’s body at the waist.
- Taiko musubi: A distinctive method of tying a woman’s obi in a rectangular shape at the back, often used in formal settings.
Kimono in Modern Times: Evolving Styles for Personal Expression
With the abolition of the class system in the Meiji era, kimonos became even more accessible to the general public, encouraging a broader embrace across all walks of life.
Today, traditional attire is worn at important milestones, including Shichi-Go-San (celebrations for children aged seven, five, and three) and weddings. Kimono is also worn during Seijin Shiki (Coming of Age Day), where young adults don luxurious furisode (long-sleeved kimono) to mark the occasion. Modern kimono styling has also evolved to incorporate contemporary tastes, with hybrid styles like kimono paired with lace or parasols becoming increasingly popular.
As a traditional garment, the kimono continues to be cherished and reinvented, offering both continuity in its form and variety in its styling.
Yukata
The yukata is a traditional garment frequently worn at summer festivals and Japanese inns, and its origins trace back to the Heian period (794–1185). In those times, Japanese people did not have the practice of immersing in baths as we do today. Instead, the nobility would enter steam baths wearing a thin garment that would absorb perspiration and dry them afterward, a precursor to the modern yukata.
By the mid-Edo period, public bathhouses (sento) became widespread, popularising the practice of soaking in a hot bath. The yukata also evolved as a relaxing garment worn after bathing, both at home and in public spaces.
Today, yukata styles range from traditional patterns to vibrant, modern designs, making it a common choice for summer festivals and fireworks displays. As a result, the yukata has become synonymous with Japanese summer festivities and is widely regarded as a quintessential element of summer in Japan.
Hakama
Originally, the hakama was part of the Heian-period attire known as the juni-hitoe (twelve-layered robe), worn exclusively by women of high social status. The familiar image of the hakama as we know it today, however, began to spread during the Meiji era (1868–1912). At this time, it was introduced for female students as an alternative to traditional kimono, which proved restrictive during lessons and activities.
Hakama pleats are notable for their symbolic design, typically including five folds. These pleats represent the virtues of the "Five Principles" (gorin gojo), namely jin (benevolence), gi (righteousness), rei (courtesy), chi (wisdom), and shin (trust). This symbolism remains significant, especially in martial arts such as kyudo (archery) and kendo (swordsmanship), where hakama are traditionally worn.
Today in Japan, hakama are frequently worn for graduation ceremonies. Like kimono, they feature a variety of designs imbued with meanings and intentions, especially to mark auspicious beginnings. Modern adaptations also include pairing hakama with Western elements, like leather boots and large hair ribbons, creating a unique fusion of traditional and Western aesthetics.
The Symbolism of Kimono Patterns
Kimono patterns, or monyou, carry rich meanings beyond visual appeal, often selected based on the occasion to convey specific sentiments or wishes. This article explores some of these motifs, particularly plant-based designs that carry seasonal and symbolic significance.
Plant Motifs in Kimono Design
(From left)
■ Pine, Bamboo, and Plum
This motif, featuring the symbolic trio of pine, bamboo, and plum, is widely beloved even today. Pine and bamboo are known for their resilience against the cold, while plum blossoms signify the arrival of spring. Together, they symbolize endurance, longevity, and the birth of life.
■ Peony
Renowned for its layered petals and beauty, the peony is often called the "king of flowers." The character for red, "丹", is included in its name, so the red peony is especially associated with wishes for immortality and long life.
■ Arabesque
Depicting twisting, intertwining vines, this design symbolizes vitality, the flourishing of descendants, and longevity. It is commonly used on celebratory kimonos and furoshiki (wrapping cloths) to convey well-wishes.
Geometric Patterns
(From left)
■ Seigaiha
This pattern depicts the waves of the vast ocean, arranged in a fan shape. Its name originates from the classical Japanese music piece "Seigaiha," and those performing the dance wear garments adorned with this pattern. Symbolising an endless, vast sea, it conveys wishes for eternal happiness and a peaceful life.
■ Sayagata
A pattern formed by joining diamond-shaped variations of the Sanskrit "swastika." It signifies eternal longevity and prosperity, symbolising wishes for a family's flourishing and long life. It is also known by various names such as "Swastika Break," "Swastika Link," "Thunder Gate Link," and "Diamond Swastika."
■ Kikkō
Derived from the shape of a turtle's shell, a symbol of longevity, this pattern consists of interlocking hexagons. Variations include the "Child Turtle Shell" (子持ち亀甲), where hexagons are doubled, and "Kikkō Hanabishi" (亀甲花菱), which incorporates flowers within the hexagons.
■ Yagasuri
This design is inspired by the feathers of birds like falcons and eagles, which are attached to the top of arrows. The phrase "to hit the target" makes this pattern auspicious, symbolising good fortune and success.
■ Kanoko
Resembling the pattern found on the back of a fawn, this pattern is created using the shibori (tie-dye) technique. Since deer are considered messengers of gods and are symbols of vitality and fertility, the Kanoko pattern represents "prosperity of descendants." Additionally, the intricate dyeing process makes this design a mark of luxury.
■ Ichimatsu
This pattern alternates squares of different colours, and its unbroken repetition is said to symbolise "prosperity." The pattern is named after the kabuki actor, Sanogawa Ichimatsu, who was known for wearing hakama with this design, and thus the pattern became known as "Ichimatsu."
Animal Patterns
