What Is Sukajan: A Symbol of Street Fashion
Today, "Sukajan", also known as Japanese souvenir jackets, is renowned both in Japan and abroad as a symbol of street fashion.
Blending Japan’s traditional embroidery techniques with elements of American military culture, Sukajan has remained popular for over 80 years since its creation.
In this article, we will explore the origins and history of Sukajan.
The Birth and Evolution of Sukajan
The Origins of Sukajan
The origins of Sukajan can be traced back to the late 1940s, shortly after World War II, in Yokosuka, Japan.
American soldiers stationed in the area began seeking traditional Japanese items as souvenirs to commemorate their time in Japan or to take home as gifts.
While kimono, obi sashes, and Japanese dolls were popular at the time, a new trend emerged—baseball-style jackets embroidered with vibrant, uniquely Japanese motifs.
These jackets became known as "souvenir jackets" and are still referred to by this name in the United States and other countries.
Made from acetate rayon fabric with a glossy finish resembling silk, and featuring intricate embroidery crafted by skilled artisans, these jackets gained popularity not only among soldiers stationed in Japan but also at overseas U.S. military bases.
In Japan, the term "Sukajan" is thought to have originated from a combination of "Yokosuka," the birthplace of these jackets, and "jumper" (a British term for jacket).
Another theory suggests that the name derives from "Sky Dragon Jumper," inspired by the frequent use of sky dragon motifs embroidered on the back of the jackets. Which origin story do you find more convincing?
Design Features
Types of Sukajan
Sukajan can be broadly divided into two main types. One features jackets made from satin-like materials, while the other uses velour fabric or quilted designs.
The latter type, in particular, often includes padding, not only adding a design accent but also providing warmth and functionality.
The most eye-catching aspect of Sukajan is undoubtedly the large embroidery on the back.
The variety of designs available is another highlight:
- Striking animals like tigers and dragons
- Eagles, the national bird of the United States
- Famous Japanese landmarks such as Mount Fuji and five-story pagodas
- Figures and objects representing Japanese culture, such as geisha
These elements, brought to life by skilled artisans, blend Japanese motifs with American influences, creating a stylish and unique impression.
Among the motifs, dragons are said to symbolize strength and longevity, while eagles represent high aspirations.
Each design carries a cultural significance rooted in Japanese traditions, adding depth and meaning to the fashion.
Japanese Embroidery Techniques
Japanese Embroidery in Vintage Sukajan
The embroidery techniques used in vintage Sukajan often vary in name depending on the region of production. Here are some representative styles:
- Kyoto – Kyō Nui (Kyoto Embroidery)
- Kanazawa – Kaga Nui (Kaga Embroidery)
- Tokyo – Edo Nui (Edo Embroidery) or Edo-Style Embroidery
Both Kyō Nui and Kaga Nui are recognized as traditional crafts by Japan’s Ministry of Economy, Trade, and Industry. These techniques are commonly applied to kimonos, obi sashes, and ceremonial aprons used in sumo wrestling.
In Japanese embroidery, silk thread is predominantly used, and the techniques are tailored to suit the motifs being depicted. Although the number of artisans has declined compared to the past, those who continue the craft invest significant time and care, stitching each design with precision and dedication.
In the early days of Sukajan, a technique known as yokoburi shishū (free-motion embroidery) was commonly used. This method, originally employed to decorate kimonos and obi, involved the use of a free-motion sewing machine, with the artisan delicately adjusting the stitching using a foot pedal. The resulting embroidery, often referred to as "thread paintings," was celebrated for its intricate and artistic quality.
Establishing Its Place in Fashion
From Humble Beginnings to Mainstream Popularity
In the 1950s, when Sukajan first emerged, it was not as widely recognised or popular as it is today. In Japan, it was often perceived as flamboyant clothing, contrasting with the values of modesty and simplicity held by many at the time.
So, when did the name "Sukajan" become familiar in Japan?
It is believed that this occurred during the 1970s, driven by the rise of rockabilly and American casual fashion trends. Sukajan became a major trend among Japanese youth, symbolising a fusion of rebellion and style.
With Japan's economic growth, the variety of materials and techniques available expanded, allowing for more intricate embroidery designs. While preserving its original form and traditional craftsmanship, Sukajan evolved during this period.
In the 1990s, the vintage clothing boom in Japan further elevated Sukajan's status. The jackets that American soldiers had brought back after the war were rediscovered as prized vintage items.
This led to a surge of interest in Sukajan at vintage shops, where its historical value and unique aesthetic made it highly sought after.
In the Modern Era
Sukajan in the Modern Era
Today, Sukajan has become an influential item in fashion scenes worldwide. Collaborations with high-end brands, as well as appearances on celebrities and influencers, have only increased its appeal and popularity.
Recognised as a unisex fashion item, Sukajan is embraced by people of all genders and age groups. It can be styled in various ways, from casual looks to sporty outfits, showcasing its versatility.
The Dobuita Street in Yokosuka, known as the birthplace of Sukajan, continues to celebrate and preserve Sukajan culture. The area is home to shops and artisans who craft not only traditional Sukajan but also handmade goods incorporating embroidered motifs inspired by Sukajan, offering a modern twist to this iconic fashion.
Some Sukajan designs now feature motifs reflecting contemporary Japanese culture, demonstrating how this garment evolves while staying true to its roots. This enduring connection between culture and fashion highlights Sukajan's significance and timelessness.
Differences Between Sukajan and Stadium Jackets
In Japan, the similar names of "Sukajan" and "Stajan" often lead to confusion, with many people mistakenly thinking they are the same. While both are based on the design of baseball jackets, there are key differences.
Sukajan is made from lightweight satin-like fabrics such as rayon and acetate, whereas stadium jackets (Stajan) are typically crafted from thicker materials like wool or melton.
As mentioned earlier, the name "Sukajan" derives from a combination of "Yokosuka" and "jumper."
On the other hand, "Stajan" comes from the term "stadium jumper," originally worn by athletes during training or breaks at stadiums. One key difference is that Sukajan features embroidered motifs inspired by Japanese culture, such as dragons and Mount Fuji, while stadium jackets typically have alphabetic patches or numbers.
Another distinction is their origins: Sukajan was born in Japan, while the stadium jacket originated in the United States.
Conclusion
The history of Sukajan, born from the fusion of Japanese tradition and American military culture, reflects Japan's post-war cultural transformation and international exchange. Evolving alongside American influence and changing times, it has maintained its intrinsic appeal.
In the modern era, Sukajan has established itself as more than just a fashion item—it is now a cultural icon, passed down to new generations as a valuable part of Japan’s cultural heritage.