Understanding the ranks and type of men's kimono is very important in order to wear them in appropriate situations. This article provides a detailed explanation of the different types of kimono, from formal to everyday wear, their uses, and how to select the appropriate obi for each.
On the other hand, more and more people today wear kimonos regardless of rank or type, based on more personal preferences. We hope that by reading this article, you will learn the etiquette of wearing a kimono, while at the same time enjoying your own unique kimono life without being overly constrained by these traditions.
1. Basic Knowledge Of Men's Kimonos
Men's kimonos are used for a wide range of formal and ceremonial occasions as well as casual everyday use. Kimonos as traditional Japanese attire are finely classified according to their type and use, and there are appropriate ranks and manners for each occasion. In this article, we will delve deeper into the ranks and types of men's kimono, as well as how to select and wear them, in order to explain their complexity in a way that is easy to understand.
1.1 The History of the KimonoThe kimono has its origins in the Heian period (794-1185) and has long been used as a symbolic garment of status and social standing in Japan. It played a particularly important role in the warrior class, and its form and colour were strictly regulated by rank.
1.2 The Role of Kimonos TodayToday, an increasing number of young people enjoy wearing kimonos in formal as well as casual settings. There are many kimonos on the market for casual enjoyment in daily life, and new styles of kimonos that fuse traditional and modern elements have also appeared.
For example, they can be seen worn on a wide range of occasions, from formal occasions such as graduation and entrance ceremonies and weddings, to dates and dinners with friends, and even cultural activities such as tea ceremony and flower arrangement as a hobby.
This has made kimonos more accessible, and there are now a wider variety of options available.
1.3 Kimono StructureMen’s kimono generally consists of a haori, kimono body, long underwear, and obi. These sets of elements are especially important in a formal setting.
- Haori: In cold weather and on formal occasions, the haori is added as a covering over the kimono.
- Kimono: The main materials used are silk, cotton and linen, depending on the occasion.
- Nagajuban (Long Undergarment): A garment worn under a kimono that is in direct contact with the skin, so material and cleanliness are important.
- Obi: Serves to hold the kimono in place and as a decorative element. Types vary by material and width.
3. The Rank and Type Of Men's Kimonos
Men's kimonos can be broadly divided into formal wear and everyday wear. Many of the formal wear items are of very high rank and are suitable for solemn occasions such as weddings and funerals. The everyday wear is more casual and suitable for everyday use.
3.1 Formal Wear
Kuro Mon-tsuki: A kimono made of black Habutae silk cloth with five crest marks.
Kuro Mon-tsuki is the highest rank of Japanese men's formal wear. This kimono is mainly used for important official events, such as the reception of state guests and weddings at large shrines, and symbolizes a very high rank ceremony.
This type of kimono is expensive because it goes through many careful steps during production. But wearing it can greatly elevate the wearer's social status and dignity.
Iro Mon-tsuki
Reference : 結婚式のお役たち情報 | 京鐘
This kimono, following 'Kuromontsugi', carries a semi-formal or quasi-formal status. It may be worn not only in official settings but also in private or semi-official occasions such as family weddings.
A wide range of colour options are available to suit the mood of the occasion and personal preferences. Navy blue and grey in particular are often chosen to give a calm impression.
Omeshi Hitotsu Mon-tsuki
Reference : 男性の和装フォーマルとTPOについて | 銀座もとじ
If your Omeshi or Tsumugi plain kimono has three or one crest, you can wear it as semi-formal attire, suitable for slightly more formal occasions than everyday wear. It is useful for a wide range of occasions, starting from everyday dinner parties to intimate gatherings, etc. A variety of materials are used, and can be selected according to the season.
3.2 Outerwear
Tsumugi
It can be worn without Hakama and is very convenient for casual daily outings. Yuki-Tsumugi and Oshima-Tsumugi are available in plain or striped weaves. Silk is used extensively as the material, creating a natural yet elegant impression. Today, kimonos made of cotton and linen are also in the market.
Wool
Developed to cope with the cold Japanese winters, wool kimonos are both warm and fashionable. It can also be worn for street wear, and its modern design is favoured by the younger generation.
4. Outerwear Can Become Higher Rank.
Outerwear is often perceived as casual attire, but depending on the design and material, it can be suitable for formal occasions as well. For example, fabrics like Omeshi and Tsumugi are typically considered casual, but adding crests, as seen in 'Omeshi Hitotsu Mon-tsuki', can elevate their status.
5. The Rank And Type Of Obi Belt
Just as kimonos have a rank, obis also have a rank and type.
Silk-threaded Kaku Obi belt
For formal occasions where a sense of luxury is required, use a Kaku Obi belt with gold or silver silk thread for the first formal wear.
A silk Kaku Obi belt is also considered formal attire for abbreviated or semi-formal attire.
Cotton Kaku Obi belt
The cotton Kaku Obi belt, ideal for casual wear, is used on a daily basis for its softness and ease of use. A wide variety of colors and patterns are available, making it easy to match individual styles. Use it as outerwear or street wear.
Heko Obi belt
Heko Obi belt is made of soft fabric and is less constricting than the Kaku Obi belt, making it comfortable to wear for long periods of time. With its lightness and cool appearance, it is an excellent addition to Kimono outfits on hot days.
Since it is casual wear, it cannot be worn as formal attire.
6. Summary
This article introduces the "rank" and corresponding "types" of men's kimono.
The most formal occasions are suited for formal attire such as “Kuro Mon-tsuki”, while semi-formal occasions are suitable for “Iro Mon-tsuki or plain kimonos with a single crest. On the other hand, casual fabrics like “Tsumugi” and wool are also popular for everyday wear among many men.
Kimonos have various rules depending on the situation, but in modern times, it is becoming more common to wear them casually as everyday attire.
It can be difficult to understand all the rules and dress appropriately for different occasions at once, so it might be a good idea to start by wearing a style that you like, keeping the understanding of ranks and types to the cultural background.
Choose a kimono and obi that suit your purpose and wear your kimono stylishly!
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