The hanten, a traditional Japanese garment originating in the Edo period, continues to embody its spirit in modern times. This article delves into the characteristics, history, and varieties of the hanten. Let's explore the diversity and cultural value of the hanten, which can still be seen in contemporary daily life.
1. What is a Hanten?
The hanten is a traditional Japanese kimono-style garment that originated in the Edo period. Due to its practicality and traditional design, it continues to play an important role as part of Japanese culture rooted in everyday life. Here, we'll introduce its history and role.
1.1 The Hanten as Edo-Period Winterwear
The hanten was originally a short kimono-style garment widely used by commoners in the Edo period for warmth. It's characterised by being light, warm, and filled with insulating materials such as cotton on the inside. Its ease of movement and warmth made it widely used both indoors and outdoors. Its insulating properties were particularly valued during the cold winter months.
1.2 The Origin of the Name 'Hanten'
The name 'hanten' comes from 'han', meaning 'partial', and 'ten', derived from 'kimono', meaning 'to wear'. Thus, 'hanten' implies 'a garment worn partially', indicating that it was primarily worn to keep the upper body warm.
1.3 The Difference Between Hanten and Happi
While the hanten originated as winterwear for commoners, the happi originated from samurai overcoats. A noticeable structural difference is that hanten have linings, while happi do not. Happi also have looser sleeves and hems, and are typically worn with the collar folded back.
2. Uses of the Hanten
Although created as winterwear in the Edo period, the hanten has various other uses. Even in modern times, it's deeply rooted in Japanese life, being worn at events and festivals. Here, we'll explain the occasions for wearing hanten.
2.1 Hanten in Daily Life
The hanten was originally used in households and as workwear during winter. Made of thick fabric, its warmth made it widely loved by commoners. It's particularly important in cold regions for providing comfort indoors.
Even today, traditional designs are favoured, and it's increasingly worn at tourist sites and traditional events. Craftsmen such as construction workers, plasterers, carpenters, and gardeners can also be seen wearing hanten printed with their company names or family crests. As we'll discuss later, these printed hanten are called shirushi hanten.
2.2 Hanten at Festivals and Special Events
Hanten play an important role in festivals and events across Japan. In particular, wearing region-specific hanten at festivals becomes a symbolic sight of the area. This enhances regional unity and strengthens cultural identity. For example, at the Nebuta Festival in Aomori or the Gion Festival in Kyoto, participants form processions wearing specially designed hanten, creating a very attractive sight for tourists.
These festivals also contribute to the local economy, so it's no exaggeration to say that hanten influence not only regional culture but also the economy.
3. Types of Hanten
There are various types of hanten, depending on their use and design. Here, we'll look at the following:
- Koshikiri hanten
- Hikeshi hanten
- Shirushi hanten
3.1 Koshikiri Hanten
Koshikiri hanten are waist-length, designed for ease of movement during work. Their lightweight and flexible structure makes them suitable for activities requiring physical movement, such as craftwork.
3.2 Hikeshi Hanten (Firefighter's Hanten)
Reference：半纏（はんてん） | 特定非営利活動法人 浪速鳶伝統保存会
Hikeshi hanten, used as uniforms for firefighting brigades in the Edo period, are known for their distinctive decorations. They're typically made of fire-resistant materials and feature different colours and patterns for each firefighting organisation. This helped identify groups and strengthen unity at fire scenes.
Given the life-risking nature of the job, it was common to have stylish and bold patterns on the lining. One theory suggests this was influenced by the prohibition on wearing luxurious kimono.
3.3 Shirushi Hanten
Shirushi hanten are special garments used by specific shops or groups to show unity and a sense of belonging.
For example, at local festivals and events, each group wears their own shirushi hanten to enhance unity. Craftsmen such as carpenters and landscapers also wore them as uniforms with their company or group logos.
These hanten typically use vibrant colours with large logos or symbols printed on the front or back.
4. Structure and Materials of Hanten
We've introduced the types and roles of hanten, but what structures and materials contribute to their durability? Let's unravel this.
4.1 Structural Features
Hanten are made from two pieces of fabric: the outer layer and the lining. The inner face has a lining, while the outer face is distinguished by notable patterns or family crests. The designs often reflect each family's history and status, carrying rich cultural significance.
Some hanten have pockets on the front, designed with the user's convenience in mind.
4.2 Main Materials Used
Hanten have traditionally used natural cotton. Cotton is known for its excellent durability and the pleasant feel of natural fibres.
Currently, even within cotton, fabric names differ based on thickness and weave, which also affects the hanten's use.
Sharkskin cotton: Named for its shark skin-like texture on the surface. It's known for faithfully reproducing the intricate designs of festival costumes.
Katsuragi cotton: A soft, comfortable fabric. Its thickness and durability mean it's sometimes used for firefighter's hanten.
Tenjiku cotton: 'Tenjiku' was an old Japanese word for India. This fabric name was given because cotton was originally imported from India. It's classified as a thin material for hanten.
Reference：法被で使われる生地 | 法被jp
5. Summary
The hanten is a traditional Japanese winter garment originating in the Edo period. This clothing has played an important role not only in daily life but also in festivals and events. There are various types of hanten, including 'naga hanten', 'koshikiri hanten', 'hikeshi hanten', and 'shirushi hanten', each rooted in specific uses and cultural backgrounds.
In recent years, fashionable hanten designs suitable for everyday wear have also been sold. Our shop also carries a variety of types, so please have a look.
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