Gion Festival / Kyoto - July Festival

 

The Gion Festival, one of Japan's three great festivals, is beloved for its history and unique characteristics.

More than just an event, it's a traditional celebration with over a thousand years of history, playing a crucial role in colouring Kyoto's summer.

This article thoroughly explains the origins and history of the Gion Festival, details of various events, the distinctive Yamaboko Junko and Gion Festival music, and the sacred Mikoshi and Chimaki amulets.

We'll also provide information on the festival's highlights and how to enjoy it, giving you a complete picture of the Gion Festival and a useful reference for your visit.

 

1. What is the Gion Festival?

The Gion Festival is a traditional event held annually in Kyoto from July 1st for one month. Its origins date back to the Heian period (794-1192), and its purpose has since evolved.

Let's dive into its origins and event information.

1.1 Origins of the Gion Festival

The Gion Festival is one of Japan's three great festivals, with over 1,100 years of history as a festival of Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto. It began in 869 during the Heian period to quell an epidemic. Although it was interrupted at times due to civil wars, it has been revived each time by the townspeople.

1.2 When and Where the Gion Festival is Held

Gion Festival takes place in Kyoto city from July 1st to 31st. There are two main events: the "Pre-Festival Yamaboko Junko" on the 17th and the "Post-Festival Yamaboko Junko" on the 24th. Most of the processions take place along Shijo Street, near the Yasaka Shrine.

1.3 What Kind of City is Kyoto?

Located in central Honshu, Japan, Kyoto is a city rich in history and culture. From 794 to 1868, it served as Japan's capital, cultural center, and religious center. The city is home to traditional Japanese arts, such as tea ceremonies, flower arrangements, and calligraphy.

Due to its historical background, Kyoto remains popular as a traditional cultural center. Many tourists from Japan and abroad visit its shrines and temples, such as Kinkaku-ji, Ginkaku-ji, and Kiyomizu-dera.

2. History of the Gion Festival

The history of the Gion Festival dates back to 869 in the Heian period. To quell epidemics and calamities, people of that time lined up 64 Mikoshi in Kyoto's Shinsen-en garden for a ritual to ward off evil. This became the origin of the Gion Festival.

Muromachi merchants and townspeople who had accumulated wealth contributed to the further development of the Gion Festival. The festival became more elaborate with the addition of float events. Especially in the latter half of the Muromachi period, the number of Yamaboko (floats) increased significantly, laying the foundation for its current form.

In the Edo period, the Gion Festival became an important event for Kyoto citizens. Yamaboko were built in each town, with their unique features, making the procession even more spectacular.

With over a thousand years of history, the Gion Festival is now counted as one of Japan's largest festivals and is registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.

3. Features of the Gion Festival

3.1 Yamaboko Junko (Parade of Floats)

The Yamaboko Junko is the highlight of the Gion Festival. Beautifully embroidered Yamaboko, also called "moving museums," parade through the town. In the pre-festival, 23 Yamaboko depart from Shijo-Karasuma, while in the post-festival, 11 Yamaboko depart from Karasuma-Oike.

The "Tsuji Mawashi (corner turning)" when moving from Shijo Street to Kawaramachi Street is particularly impressive, overwhelming spectators with its power.

3.2 Gion Festival Music

Source: 屋形舟の上で聴く「コンチキチン」の祇園囃子!星のや京都で2021年7月「京のお囃子舟」開催 | オマツリジャパン

Gion Festival music is the traditional music played during the Gion Festival. It's performed during the Yamaboko Junko and various festival events, playing a role in enhancing the festival atmosphere.

While rhythm is constant, it is characterized by its steady and consistent rhythm punctuated by unique phrasing and melodies. This simplicity belies a powerful rhythmic drive and melancholy melodies that evoke the solemn and sacred atmosphere of the festival.

3.3 Three Sacred Mikoshi

Source: 祇園祭2019 三基の御神輿(八坂神社) | 花景色-K.W.C. PhotoBlog

The three sacred Mikoshi of the Gion Festival enshrines Susanoo-no-Mikoto, the deity of Yasaka Shrine, and his family. Susanoo-no-Mikoto is the central figure among the three Mikoshi, worshipped as a god who dispels epidemics and wards off evil and is the main deity of the Gion Festival.

These Mikoshi perform the important ritual of Mikoshi Togyo (the deities touring the town to pray for the peace and prosperity of the area) during the Gion Festival.

3.4 Chimaki Amulets

Chimaki amulets are charms to ward off evil and misfortune. They are made by wrapping rice straw and talismans in bamboo leaves or paper, tied with red and white or five-colored threads on the outside. The design varies depending on the floating town.

Chimaki amulets can be purchased around each float or at special sales booths during the Gion Festival period.

4. Characteristics of the Yamaboko

There are two types of famous Yamaboko in the Gion Festival, each with a different role. Here, we'll introduce the details of these roles and the unique manufacturing techniques.

4.1 Roles of the Yamaboko

The Yamaboko are mainly divided into two types, called "Yama" and "Hoko".

"Yama" are relatively small and modeled after Mikoshi that carry gods.

On the other hand, "Hoko" have long spears raised as their name suggests, with some reaching up to 10 meters in height, characterized by their grandeur. Their role is to drive away evil spirits.

Source: 山鉾の魅力細見・細部の名称 | 京都市下京区

4.2 Traditional Technique Without Using Nails

Source: 祇園祭の山鉾建て始まる 伝統の「縄がらみ」作業も - 烏丸経済新聞

In constructing the Yamaboko, a traditional technique is used where no nails are used but, everything is firmly tied together with ropes. This technique is called "Nawagumi" (rope tying). Wood is carefully selected and processed, and each piece of wood is precisely measured, processed, and combined.

This ingenious technique makes the Yamaboko lightweight while maintaining a strong structure.

5. Highlights of the Gion Festival

While the Gion Festival is held for a month, some days attract particular attention. Here, we'll introduce the timing and content you can enjoy.

5.1 Pre-Festival and Post-Festival

The Gion Festival is a large-scale festival held from July 1st to 31st, focussing on the "Pre-Festival" on the 17th and the "Post-Festival" on the 24th. The pre-festival features the Yamaboko Junko, while the post-festival's highlight is the umbrella procession. Different Yamaboko appear in each procession, allowing you to enjoy a variety of decorations and styles.

5.1.1 Details of the Pre-Festival

Source: 祇園祭前祭 山鉾巡行 | ざ・京都

In the pre-festival Yamaboko Junko, 23 Yamaboko appear and parade through Kyoto city. These Yamabokos are valuable cultural properties made during the Edo or Meiji periods, featuring luxurious and gorgeous decorations. A highlight is the "Naginata Hoko" leading the procession, which is truly impressive.

5.1.2 Details of the Post-Festival

 

Source: 祇園祭 後祭 山鉾巡行 2022 | 京都観光のすゝめ

In the post-festival Yamaboko Junko, 10 Yamaboko appear, allowing you to enjoy a different atmosphere from the pre-festival. A highlight of the post-festival is "Yamaboko crossing the bridge," especially the "Ofune Hoko" (large ship float) which attracts attention. The Ofune Hoko is modeled after a ship, and its gallant appearance is a must-see.

5.2 Umbrella Procession

Source: 祇園祭 花傘巡行 | ざ・京都

 

The umbrella procession is held on July 24th, where female dancers perform while holding umbrellas beautifully decorated with flowers.

The floral decorations and dances that further enhance the festival's splendor differ for each town, and the procession of about 1,000 participants overwhelms spectators.

5.2.1 History and Appeal of the Umbrella Procession

The history of the umbrella procession is relatively recent, having been revived in the 1980s. It's popular for its beauty and splendor different from the traditional Yamaboko, especially among tourists.

5.2.2 Recommended Viewing Spots

Recommended spots for enjoying the umbrella procession are along Shijo Street and around the city hall. Here, you can enjoy the moment when many umbrellas and dancers gather without missing anything.

6. How to Better Enjoy the Gion Festival

Here are ways to enhance your enjoyment when participating in the Gion Festival.

6.1 Secure Good Viewing Points for the Procession

To enjoy the Yamaboko Junko, which is the highlight of the Gion Festival, it's crucial to secure good viewing points. Main viewing spots include Shijo Street, Kawaramachi Street, and Oike Street. As these streets require early arrival to secure a spot, we recommend arriving early. There may be reserved seats available, so it's a good idea to check the official website for the latest information and purchase them.

Specific points include:

  • Shijo-Karasuma Intersection: Where many Yamaboko pass. You can see the famous "corner turning" of the Gion Festival.
  • Oike Street: A relatively wide street that's easy to view from and suitable for photography.
  • Gion Intersection: Where the procession reaches its climax, particularly exciting.

Source: 四条河原町《辻回し》「松」 | 囃子方と祇園囃子 | 函谷鉾


6.2 Participate in Pulling the Yamaboko

 

At the Gion Festival, there are opportunities for general tourists to participate in pulling some of the Yamaboko. By applying to be a "Hikite" (puller) hosted by the neighborhood association, you can experience pulling a float.

Participation methods and recruitment periods are often announced on the official websites of each neighborhood association, so it's good to check in advance. Generally, recruitment starts a few months before the festival, so early information gathering is crucial.

6.3 Enjoy Gion Festival Cuisine

During the Gion Festival period, various food stalls and shops line up, allowing you to enjoy Kyoto-specific cuisine. Particularly recommended are the festival-limited Yatsuhashi sweets and chilled candy. Enjoy the festival atmosphere while savoring delicious local food.

6.3.1 Yatsuhashi

Yatsuhashi, a representative Kyoto souvenir, comes in various types such as raw Yatsuhashi and baked Yatsuhashi. During festival seasons, you might even discover special limited-edition flavors.  Among all the options, matcha-flavored raw Yatsuhashi reigns supreme as a favorite among tourists. When purchasing as a souvenir, it's good to visit department stores or souvenir shops.

6.3.2 Chilled Candy

Chilled candy is the perfect treat for a hot summer day, and indulging in one from a Gion Festival stall while surrounded by the festival sounds is a quintessential summer pleasure. Stalls near Sanjo Street are particularly famous, and walking with cold chilled candy in hand is the essence of the festival.

9. Summary

Steeped in history dating back to the Heian period, the Gion Festival is one of Japan's three grand festivals. Held every July in Kyoto city, you can enjoy the luxurious Yamaboko Junko, Gion Festival music, three sacred Mikoshi, and Chimaki amulets.

To fully immerse yourself in the festivities, secure a viewing spot early to witness the procession's highlights at their best. While participation in pulling the Yamaboko floats is typically reserved for festival participants, you can still savor the unique flavors of Gion Festival cuisine.

Through the Gion Festival's rich traditions and captivating features, experience the heart and soul of Kyoto, the ancient capital of Japan.

 

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