Sanja Matsuri / Tokyo - May Festival

Sanja Matsuri (Sanja Festival) is one of Japan's 3 major festivals with a rich 700-year history, held annually in the heart of Tokyo, Asakusa. Asakusa Jinja is closely connected to the festival and still draws large crowds today.

In this article, we will explore the origins and cultural significance of Sanja Matsuri, as well as how it has been passed down through the generations.

What is Sanja Matsuri?

Sanja Matsuri (Sanja Festival) is a renowned traditional festival held annually on the third Friday, Saturday, and Sunday of May in Asakusa, Taito ward in Tokyo.

This year, it will be from 17th to 19th of May, 2024.

 

Centered around the Asakusa Jinja (Asakusa Shrine), the festival attracts roughly 1.8 million visitors from Japan and abroad over its 3 days.

In this section, we will look at the origins of Sanja Matsuri and the unique characteristics of this festival.

The Origin of Sanja Matsuri

Sanja Matsuri is traced back to 1312, where Mikoshi (portable shrine) were carried across the Sumida River on boats.  A legend spread that the three deities enshrined at Asakusa Jinja would ride on the mikoshi and observe the town, which eventually evolved into the festival we know today called Sanja Matsuri.

In the past, the festival was held around March 18th, but since the Meiji era (1868 - 1912), it was changed to be held in May.

The Location and Time of Sanja Matsuri

Sanja Matsuri begins on the third Friday of every May and continues for 3 days. The festival is held around the Asakusa Shrine located in the eastern side of Tokyo, in the Taito-ku, Asakusa area.

During this period, Asakusa bustles with activity. The main event is the procession of 3 elaborately decorated portable shrines, centered around Sensoji Temple.

The History of Sanja Matsuri and Asakusa Jinja

We mentioned the 3 enshrined deities in discussing the origins of Sanja Matsuri, but interestingly, these 3 deities were originally human.

During the reign of Emperor Suiko, fishermen brothers Hinokuma, along with a local scholar Hajiuji, retrieved a Kannon statue from the Sumida River. They enshrined it in their home, eventually leading to the founding of Sensoji Temple. Asakusa Jinja honors these 3 individuals as deities who played a pivotal role in the temple's establishment.

During the festival procession, the three enshrined deities are believed to traverse the town, their gaze sweeping over the crowds and bestowing blessings upon the local area and visitors alike. This enduring belief is a key reason why these deities have been cherished for generations.

Sanja Matsuri's Ceremonies Vary Depending on the Day 

First Day of Sanja Matsuri

On the first day of Sanja Matsuri, performers and musicians ride on elaborate stage-like vehicles, weaving through the streets in a vibrant spectacle of dance and festival music. This lively procession culminates at the shrine, where the traditional "Binzasara Mai" dance is performed at the main hall of Sensoji Temple. Rooted in Asakusa's history as rice fields, the Binzasara Mai is a rice-planting ritual that expresses wishes for an abundant harvest and wards off evil spirits.

Reference: 三社祭2 大行列 | Townwalker

Second Day of Sanja Matsuri

On the second day, roughly 100 Mikoshi representing various neighborhoods converge on Asakusa Jinja to receive purification rites before parading through their respective neighborhoods. Up until the Edo period, a boat procession took place where the 3 main Mikoshi were carried upstream on the Sumida River. This tradition has since evolved into the present-day parade through the towns.

The sight of 100 Mikoshi lined up in the Asakusa Temple rear plaza is truly mystical.

Third Day of Sanja Matsuri

Reference: 4年分の思いを込めた…本社神輿担いで浅草を巡行 三社祭最終日 | 東京新聞

On the third day, the 3 main Mikoshi depart Asakusa Jinja for a spirited procession through each neighborhood. The main shrine's mikoshi are believed to gain power the more vigorously they are carried, and the people carrying the Mikoshi jostle with each other as they parade around each neighborhood for about 40 minutes. As dusk falls, the main mikoshi return to Sensoji Temple, marking Sanja Matsuri's end.

A highlight of Sanja Matsuri is the procession of the three main Mikoshi. Carried by 100 people each, these shrines become a focal point for shared energy and excitement, uniting both bearers and tourists in the festival's spirit.

Even within the grounds of Asakusa Jinja, various traditional dances are performed, making this the most lively period for Asakusa throughout the year.

Sanja Matsuri Highlights

The dance is Designated as an Intangible Folk Cultural Property

The Binzasara dance introduced earlier is designated as an Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Tokyo. Red and white papers are scattered to represent planting rice seeds in the soil and nurturing the seedlings, and musical accompaniment is provided by instruments called Sasara. A lion dance is also incorporated, expressing wishes for an abundant harvest and warding off evil spirits.

The Three Mikoshi Representing Sanja Matsuri

Reference:三社祭の日程 | 浅草神社 三社様

The main Mikoshis representing Sanja Matsuri are Ichinomiya (First Shrine), Ninomiya (Second Shrine), and Sannomiya (Third Shrine).

The spirits of Haniwa Masachikatsu will be enshrined in the First Shrine, Hinohama Hamanarumatsu in the Second Shrine, and Hinohama Takekatsu in the Third Shrine, and they will parade through the town.

The practice of vigorously shaking the main Mikoshi is called "Tamafuri" (soul shaking), and it is to not only heighten the divine spirit of the deities, but also bring about an abundant harvest, bountiful fishing, and the warding off of epidemics.

What is Asakusa Like?

Asakusa is located in Taito Ward, Tokyo, and is a representative tourist destination in Japan that fuses tradition and modernity. Asakusa boasts historical landmarks such as Sensoji Temple and Nakamise-dori, one of the oldest shopping streets in Japan, as well as convenient access to the Tokyo Skytree.

The History of Asakusa

Asakusa has a long history, with Sensoji Temple being founded in 628. Later, during the Edo period, it flourished as a center of entertainment for the commoners, becoming a hub for theaters and pleasure quaters. Throughout the Edo period, this area nurtured many cultural and artistic traditions.

Asakusa Tourist Spots

  • Sensō-ji Temple: Tokyo's oldest temple, with a history dating back over 1300 years. Even Tokugawa Ieyasu visited to pray for victory at the Battle of Sekigahara, testament to its prestigious history.
  • Nakamise-dori: The path leading to Sensō-ji Temple, Nakamise-Dori, is lined with shops selling traditional Japanese souvenirs and food. It offers visitors a glimpse of Japanese traditional culture.
  • Hanayashiki: Japan's oldest amusement park, established in 1853. It features the oldest operating roller coaster in Japan, various other rides and game stalls as well as restaurants. One of a charming retro sightseeing spot.
  • Tokyo Skytree: The world's tallest tower at 634 meters. It's located close to Asakusa, and the view from its observation deck is a highlight of any Tokyo visit.

Summary

This article introduced the history, characteristics, and highlights of Sanja Matsuri.

Sanja Matsuri is a prestigious traditional festival considered one of Japan's 3 great festivals and Asakusa Jinja, which enshrines three deities was also visited by Tokugawa Ieyasu to pray for victory.

By understanding the background of the local area and the festival, we hope you can deepen your interest in Japanese culture and enjoyment when visiting the festival.

 

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